A few friends have shared their memories of September 11 on Facebook today—where they were and how they heard the devastating news… and so forth.
I’ve also been thinking about the anniversary as a friend is holidaying in the spot I was when I learned of the tragedy.
I was living in East Timor at the time and taking the last holiday of my two-year posting. Despite flying in and out of the Northern Territory on a regular basis, I hadn’t taken the opportunity to see more of the place.
So finally… on 9 September 2001, I flew from Dili to Darwin and onto Alice Springs. After a night there and some exploring I hired a car and drove myself to Yulara (the town near Uluru—once known as Ayres Rock). The whole thing was very surreal. I stayed in some ridiculously expensive resort for a couple of nights and once there realised I was so exhausted (from work) I really didn’t want to do any sightseeing.
But I did. The next day, 11 September, I drove to Uluru to watch the sun rise and walked around its base. I’m rarely impressed by ‘things’ and a terrible tourist but even I was amazed at the colours of the rock as the sun rose. It was beautiful but bloody cold and quite eerie… so I was relieved when I eventually found an older couple to accompany on the walk.
That evening I went on the Sounds of Silence dinner—a fabulous dining event in the middle of nowhere, lit only by lamp-light with great food, stacks of wine and even more stars.
Not drunk, but with a little buzz going I arrived back at the resort at a decent hour—planning to get a good sleep so I could leave early the next morning to return to Alice Springs for my midday flight to Darwin. I put the television on as I was preparing for bed and saw something which seemed more like a movie than real life.
There’d been this terrible accident the journalist was saying. A plane had flown into one of the Twin Towers. It was horrible. Everyone was in shock. I’m blissfully ignorant about US geography and icons so hadn’t even heard of the Twin Towers, but was naturally upset for those affected. And I turned the TV off and went to bed.
Sometime around 5am the next morning I checked out, payed my exorbitant bill and got in my hire car. There was no radio / mobile phone reception between Yulara and Alice Springs so I only had a short window of opportunity to check-in with the outside world.
And I heard the news. Six or seven hours had passed. There had been more devastation. It was clearly no longer an accident. It was still early but there were reports that up to 20,000 people had been killed.
Gobsmacked I sobbed as I listened and drove, watching the majesty of Uluru as the sun rose in the distance, changing its colours again and again.
And then nothing. No radio reception. No mobile phone reception. Just silence.
Four hours later I approached Alice Springs, searching for radio stations as soon as possible.
I left my hire car and went into the airport where everyone was gathered silently around TV screens. I went into the airline club where seasoned travellers looked vacantly at news reporters on television screens.
I arrived at my hotel in Darwin and staff and guests were gathered around a TV screen in the lobby bar. I still remember how strange it was to hear the sound of a journalist’s voice reverberating around the usually quiet reception desk.
And in the following days that was all we saw.
Most of us won’t forget where we were when we heard or saw the news. My memories are intertwined with something beautiful and majestic and I’ve never really decided if it’s a good thing or not.
September 11, 2015
I really enjoyed this post! What a beautiful place to be. I was in my HSC year and studying Geography we had a huge portion on globalisation and international travel. I also had a trip booked for NY in January after I graduated. (Which I went on was amazing).
September 11, 2015
Gah! Now I feel old as I would have been in my early-mid 30s!
September 11, 2015
Deb – how I’d love to go to Uluru!! I remember where I was on 9/11 when I found out. I used to be in a singing group and we used to meet to practice once a week. There were quite a few of us – guys and girls – guitars and all. This was practice night. We were at Joan and Peter’s house. We had finished for the night. It was very late – probably around midnight I think and we were preparing to leave when Peter drew our attention to something on the TV. We were all in shock and there were tears. When I went to bed I didn’t know the full story of what was going on but I found out in the morning. It was horrific. I’ll never forget it.
September 12, 2015
When I travelled o/s everyone I met who’d visited Australia had been to Uluru and I felt kinda guilty that I’d never been.
But I had to force myself to go there in the end Min. My posting was finishing up in late December (I’d been in Darwin since Sept 1999 then Dili from Nov 1999) and I’d seen nothing of the NT (Kakadu, Uluru, Alice Springs etc). I recall the trip was seriously expensive as I only booked at the last minute and only had the most expensive accommodation option left ($500 / night) and in retrospect I should have had a break first because I was seriously (mentally) buggered and skipped my planned visit to Kings Canyon to lie by the pool and read!?!
September 11, 2015
I’ve always wanted to do the Sounds of Silence dinner! I don’t think it would matter where you were when you heard the news, you’d always remember it. It was so horrific I didn’t watch the news for days, it was just too much. It’s only in recent years I’ve been able to watch documentaries and news footage of that day. A hundred years could pass, and I’d still always remember that day and yet I’ll never be able to get my head around it. I can’t imagine what it must be like for the people who lived through that, and those that lost people they loved. It makes my heart hurt just thinking about it x
September 12, 2015
Sammie I enjoyed the Sounds of Silence dinner but it was one of the only times I felt weird as a solo traveller. I’d been talking to this couple while waiting for the bus and then they got put onto a different place and went to a different place and then when we got there (middle of nowhere) and they allocated tables I was almost a bit of a problem for them working out where to put me. The people at my table were nice enough but I made the mistake of telling them what I did and where I worked and they wanted to talk endlessly about East Timor and Indonesia and the UN etc…
September 11, 2015
I was at home in the UK, just me and mum when the planes hit; a weird and extremely sad time. My memories of Uluru were strong with this post though. magical place.
September 12, 2015
Uluru is indeed magical… and just ‘there’…
September 12, 2015
I live a lot closer to NYC, a mere 700km, but at that time had never been there, and was equally ignorant of the significance those buildings had. But many of my colleagues knew. We were in the office – we’re in the same timezone – and being unable to get through to any of the major news web sites, we clustered around a clock radio at my manager’s desk. We tuned in to listen to the chaos, and heard rather than saw the buildings eventually collapse. I’ll never forget the sound of a woman, stopped by the reporter as she fled the scene – “oh my God, the people in the windows! Oh my God, they’re JUMPING.” I have never heard terror like that. Words cannot describe it.
September 12, 2015
I think seeing those figures jumping was perhaps one of the worst things I’ve ever seen…
September 12, 2015
Great post. I remember getting up that evening and hubby (who had been watching soccer from somewhere or other) telling me that a plane had flown into the side of some building in New York. I told him that he’d obviously landed on a movie made from a Tom Clancy book & went back to bed. The next morning, the horror and the reality of that, and the knowledge that this had changed our landscape for ever was unveiled.
September 12, 2015
Yes… I still remember the early images and thinking it was a movie…
September 13, 2015
Beautiful post Deb, makes me teary remembering and I was just at home but insomnia had me fixed on the tv as the horror unfolded. There are just some things you never ever forget. Your photos of this special place are beautiful … it must feel almost surreal for you.
I climbed Ayers Rock (as it was known way back then) as a teenager, would love to return.
September 14, 2015
Yes definitely Teddyree, very surreal! The whole thing feels a bit like it was a dream as it was all so out of the norm for me, and so fleeting!
September 14, 2015
Powerful memories Deb – the silence and the emptiness of the NT outback must have really made the horror of that day even more surreal. My memories are of my nephew being born – on September 12 here, but as the situation was unfolding in the US. It must have been so unreal for my sister being in labour in the midst of it. For our family my nephew was a special gift of hope but it also felt so scary to welcome him into a world like that.
September 14, 2015
Oh yes… wondering what sort of world he was being welcomed into!
September 14, 2015
I’m in New York at the moment (holidaying from Australia) and visited the 9/11 memorial and museum today. I was living in Perth on September 11 2001 and still vividly remember watching it all unfold on TV. Seeing the reality of it today at the museum was… I don’t know how to put it in words… horrifying, tragic, sad & devastating but also uplifting.
The museum has a lot of audio footage as well as pictures and moving images and hearing the victims voices as they called loved ones from the towers or the hijacked planes and hearing the survivors and eyewitness accounts just broke my heart. I’ll never forget.
September 14, 2015
Oh what an amazing experience Sue – something you’ll never forget that’s for sure. It sounds like a wonderful memorial for such a tragic event.
September 16, 2015
In a way, I find the permanence and silence you describe sort of reassuring – a counterbalance of sorts to the remembered horror of that day.
September 16, 2015
Yes, that’s right…. there was something surreal about the beauty and silence (and isolation) of Uluru given what I was hearing.
September 16, 2015
I was in New York at the time of this. I was 19 and it was my first time overseas and I had gone by myself. A couple of weeks earlier I had discovered the Twin Towers on a ferry tour I took so I knew all about them and even have a photograph of myself standing in front of them just 2 weeks beforehand. That night I went to a candlelight vigil among those who had family members lost in the towers. It was surreal. We could still hear the jets flying overhead and at the time of the tragedy there was so much confusion, I believe in other countries the correspondence and reporting was far better than in the States that day where panic just took over. I’ll never forget it as long as I live.
September 17, 2015
Oh yes I can imagine the chaos (and shock) there as it was bad enough here!
September 17, 2015
American here. I’m actually rather surprised that people from other countries would recall this event, especially as a kind of personal remembrance….i.e…..where they were when it happened etc. 14 years ago. In the meantime, hundreds of thousands of lives have been lost through disease and war that are scarcely a “blip” on anyone’s radar.
September 17, 2015
It’s sad isn’t it, that so many lives have been lost over the years (Rwanda and Somalia come to mind) which have resulted in minimal intervention. I suspect the brazenness of the September 11 is what took everyone by surprise. Many of us in developed countries take our security and safety for granted and suddenly that was rocked. We realised we’d been fortunate. Not to mention complacent.
But yes, September 11 was widely reported in Australia (and most other countries I’m sure). In fact from memory all of our TV stations paused all normal viewing for days and only reported on the attacks.
November 21, 2016
I think it’s interesting that we somehow have no idea of the enormity of events until later, when the ‘gaps’ are filled so to speak. Nice post, it’s an interesting take.
November 21, 2016
Thanks Lydia.
November 21, 2016
What a surreal experience. You tell it so well. I too had never heard of the twin towers until 9/11. I had just had my first son in July when it happened and I felt so frightening to think of the world going nuts. It’s hard to believe it was 16 years ago.
November 21, 2016
Um. I mean 15 years ago…
November 21, 2016
True… I think we all expected it to be the start of a new world war or something. It wasn’t, but then again I don’t think the world’s been the same since.
November 21, 2016
Surreal yet real. There you were in one of the most ancient parts of the world…and this happened in a so-called sophisticated city and country. I think your writing is so good Deb. Thanks for linking up. Denyse. #lifethisweek
November 21, 2016
Oh thanks Denyse, that’s lovely! xx
November 21, 2016
We also were travelling when it happened; caravanning around Australia. We heard just as we were about to board the Spirit of Tasmania in Melbourne. I have to say I was very thankful that we were abou to head into the back end of nowhere (sorry Tassie!)
November 22, 2016
Ah yes, very true. I was a bit the same in the NT – though was getting on a plane of course!
November 21, 2016
I really enjoyed reading this post, something that was so tragic intertwined with something so beautiful and both so memorable at the same time. Thankyou for sharing this post.
November 22, 2016
Thanks and that’s exactly how I felt and how my memories of it all has been shaped. Being in such an amazing place, at such a devastating time….